The Chatter of the Raindrops

Continuing the series Letters from the Heart of Africa. My first few nights in Rwanda brought me shallow, dreamless sleeps; … More

Kivu: The Shimmering Lake in the Shadow of the Volcano

In the very heart of Africa, between Rwanda and D.R. Congo, is a silvery, majestic lake framed by breezy palms … More

One morning I phoned my friend Thierry. “Someone’s stolen my clothes.” “I can lend you clothes,” he said. Thierry was … More

The twin pillars of passion in Rwanda are Christianity and English Premier League Football. The sides of the small buses, … More

Continuing the series, Letters from the Heart of Africa No narrative on Rwanda can really ever avoid the genocide. Its magnitude … More

Continuing the series, Letters from the Heart of Africa. We all want to go places, forwards, like a car, pressing … More

One of my life goals was to volunteer in Africa but I was never quite sure if my career path … More

It was the most beautiful place I’ve ever worked in: a creamy-white building with balconies facing the hills of central … More

The fastest, most exhilarating way to get round Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, is on motorbike taxis, which go by … More

Whoever first coined the term ‘the Dark Continent’ to describe Africa was either wearing very powerful sunglasses, or was nocturnal. … More

Dear friends, I made it, I’m here, in Kigali, Rwanda, writing to you from the hilly heart of a distant … More

After a short layover in Nairobi airport, the great African plains appeared below us, followed by Lake Victoria, its shoreline … More

A few years ago I volunteered in Rwanda. This serialised post is based on letters and emails sent home to … More

Peter, my Rwandan housemate, is a man of many talents – he’s my gym training buddy, my security guard, a … More