The importance of memory 

Continuing the series, Letters from the Heart of Africa. We all want to go places, forwards, like a car, pressing … More

Things to do in Assam: The blue hill and the temple of the goddess of love

Assam, in India’s north-east, is known as the Land of the Red River and the Blue Hill. The Red River … More

Help! I’m a businessman going to work in an NGO in Africa

One of my life goals was to volunteer in Africa but I was never quite sure if my career path … More

Things to do in Formentera: Go down a hole and across a cliff

A hole appears in the ground before us. The huge white lighthouse to our left stares south and to our … More

Things to do in Formentera: beach towels and helmets

We’re on Formentera, a small island just 19kms across, to the south of Ibiza, it’s the worst kept secret of … More

A Rough Guide to the Various Forms of Rwandan Handshakes

Rwandan body language is fascinating. As someone born in England,where office handshakes are either hard, soft or damp squib, Rwandans, … More

A special place of remembrance, hope and beauty

It was the most beautiful place I’ve ever worked in: a creamy-white building with balconies facing the hills of central … More

The thrill of the motorbike taxis in the hilly heart of Africa

The fastest, most exhilarating way to get round Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, is on motorbike taxis, which go by … More

Getting to work, Rwanda style

Whoever first coined the term ‘the Dark Continent’ to describe Africa was either wearing very powerful sunglasses, or was nocturnal. … More

A letter from the heart of Africa: settling in fine

 Dear friends, I made it, I’m here, in Kigali, Rwanda, writing to you from the hilly heart of a distant … More

The flight to Rwanda and getting rid of the contraband

After a short layover in Nairobi airport, the great African plains appeared below us, followed by Lake Victoria, its shoreline … More

Letters from the Heart of Africa

A few years ago I volunteered in Rwanda. This serialised post is based on letters and emails sent home to … More

Peter and the soup confusion

Peter, my Rwandan housemate, is a man of many talents – he’s my gym training buddy, my security guard, a … More

Clapham Common – by rainbows, by ice, by night and by day

Travel photos … uncommon views of the common

Life of Pi – a journey to the Indian Coffee House in Pondicherry

Have you ever been so enchanted by a book that you had to visit its setting? I made that journey to Pondicherry after reading Life of Pi and eventually met its author Yann Martel.

Jodhpur: In the shadow of the clock tower

We’re in the desert in the middle of the dry season and we got a rainstorm. Someone knew the British … More

Things to do in Jaisalmer: camel rides, missing jeeps and other desert perils 

I should’ve known better when we booked a desert safari from a small tour operator in the narrow streets inside … More

Goa: Sunsets, mopeds, bribing cops and other beach activities

I think I may have unwittingly bribed a cop. We’re on small country lane in Goa in search of a … More

Hints of Holi: after India’s festival of colours, the powdered dyes linger on

Days after Holi, India’s festival of colours, the powdered dyes linger on in tiny cracks, on walls, on doors, paving … More

Assam: Notes from a hot tin roof on the Brahmaputra 

Assam, in India’s north east, is known as the land of the red river and blue hill. The red river has … More

Things to see in Kolkata

 We have precisely seven hours in Kolkata before the taxi leaves for the airport. We’re spending the day traveling on … More

Varanasi: Notes from the banks of the Ganges

India wakes early and Varanasi is no exception – at dawn the eastern sky above the sandy floodplain shines pink … More

Travel tips for Venice

There’s a sight around every corner, down each walkway and canal that evokes an ‘aaah’. You’ll feel as if you’ve … More

Karisimbi – Snow in the Heart of Africa 

It was magical to break through the clouds on the second day and see snow in the heart of Africa. … More

A view of Everest

We were so lucky to see them that spring morning – it is perhaps one of the most awe inspiring … More

Flying to India via Moscow in 1978

We’re going to India for Christmas. I’m seven. I get dressed in shorts and sandals. Five hours later we walk … More